When it comes to fashion and the planet, we’re of the opinion that taking things slow is key. It's why we’ve made our new denim collection, Seen Worn Kept, wonderfully sustainable - from top to (bell) bottom.
And while being kinder to our earth starts with production, there are little things we can do that make a big difference. Keeping much-loved lengths for longer is an easy way to reduce textile waste (and all the energy that goes into constructing new pairs).
This is where screen-printing comes into play: a technique that Peckham-based label again & again has honed to an artform. Bold, bright, and one-of-a-kind, their dreamy denim uses light-sensitive emulsions to create unique patterns, breathing life into unworn or discarded garments.
So, to celebrate the launch of our greener jeans, we asked founder Jen to run us through replicating the technique at home. From psychedelic swirls to pop-art flowers, here’s how to create printed pairs that leave all the right impressions.
Craft Corner:
How to Screen-Print
onto Denim
Again & Again founder Jen Cunliffe shows us
how to breathe new life into old blues...
You will need:
- Printing screen
- Light-coloured garment to print on
- Small piece of cardboard
- Silk-screen fabric ink
- Squeegee tool
- Acetate
- Gloves
- Brown parcel tape
- Clear tape
- Coating trough
- Light-sensitive photo emulsion
- Lamp (250-Watt bulb)
- Laser jet printer
- Printing screen
- Light-coloured garment to print on
- Small piece of cardboard
- Silk-screen fabric ink
- Squeegee tool
- Acetate
- Gloves
- Brown parcel tape
- Clear tape
- Coating trough
- Light-sensitive photo emulsion
- Lamp (250-Watt bulb)
- Laser jet printer
Method:
Step 1 – Designing the Pattern
Create a solid black-and-white image on your computer – the shapes in black will be transferred onto your jeans. Print out onto acetate using a laser jet printer.
Step 2 – Coating your Screen
Lay down a sheet and stand the screen upright against a wall. Pull on your gloves and pour the emulsion mixture into the coating trough.
Holding the handle of your trough, place it against the mesh at the bottom of your screen and tilt to a 45-degree angle. The emulsion should now be touching your mesh.
Gently and slowly, glide the trough up until you get to the top of your screen. Make sure you cover the whole mesh with emulsion. Repeat the same technique, this time holding your trough at a 90-degree angle to your screen. Again, glide the trough upwards; this will scrape off any excess emulsion.
Top tip: keep the emulsion layer even for the best results.
Step 3 – Dry in the Dark
Move the screen immediately into a pitch-black room (a wardrobe/under the stairs works well), and leave for at least 2 hours. Be sure not to expose your screen to any light during this time. Otherwise, the emulsion will harden, and the print won’t come through!
Step 4 – Exposing Your Screen
Take note of the exposure times stated on your chosen emulsion. This could be anywhere from 2-10 minutes, depending on the brand used.
In your dark room (don’t turn on the light yet!), ensure your screen is completely dry before continuing. With the silk mesh side of your screen facing up, take your image and place it face down in the centre of the coated screen.
Using clear tape, secure the corners of your image to the screen (making sure not to tape across any black sections of your design). Position a lamp fitted with a 250-Watt bulb so that it is one foot above the surface, directly above your image. Turn on, then leave the room without switching on any other lights.
Leave your screen under the lamp for the amount of time specified in your emulsion instructions.
Move the screen immediately into a pitch-black room (a wardrobe/under the stairs works well), and leave for at least 2 hours. Be sure not to expose your screen to any light during this time. Otherwise, the emulsion will harden, and the print won’t come through!
Step 4 – Exposing Your Screen
Take note of the exposure times stated on your chosen emulsion. This could be anywhere from 2-10 minutes, depending on the brand used.
In your dark room (don’t turn on the light yet!), ensure your screen is completely dry before continuing. With the silk mesh side of your screen facing up, take your image and place it face down in the centre of the coated screen.
Using clear tape, secure the corners of your image to the screen (making sure not to tape across any black sections of your design). Position a lamp fitted with a 250-Watt bulb so that it is one foot above the surface, directly above your image. Turn on, then leave the room without switching on any other lights.
Leave your screen under the lamp for the amount of time specified in your emulsion instructions.
Step 5 – Clean Your Screen
Once the time is up, remove your image from the screen (still keeping all lights off!).
Working quickly – and wearing gloves – take your screen out of the dark room and into your washing area. Spray with cold water (we recommend using a hose or shower). Continue washing your screen until the water runs clear, then leave to dry.
Step 6 – Prepare to Print
Hold the dry screen up to the light: if there are any areas that you've missed with emulsion, cover using brown parcel tape. Repeat to check that only your design can be seen.
Once the time is up, remove your image from the screen (still keeping all lights off!).
Working quickly – and wearing gloves – take your screen out of the dark room and into your washing area. Spray with cold water (we recommend using a hose or shower). Continue washing your screen until the water runs clear, then leave to dry.
Step 6 – Prepare to Print
Hold the dry screen up to the light: if there are any areas that you've missed with emulsion, cover using brown parcel tape. Repeat to check that only your design can be seen.
Step 7 – Printing Time!
Pop a piece of cardboard inside your jeans, underneath the area you want to print. Cover your table with a sheet and stretch your garment flat on the table. Lay your screen on top of your garment with the mesh side flat against your item. Place something heavy on top to hold the screen in place.
Top tip: we’re big fans of the humble baked bean tin – a six-pack will do the trick!
Wearing gloves, pour your fabric ink horizontally across the top of the screen, avoiding your design. Take your squeegee, and in one smooth motion, move down your screen; use firm pressure, so that the ink covers the entire design.
Repeat this motion a few more times. Scrape the ink off your squeegee, and, using the clean edge, run it down your screen once more without any ink. Lift up your screen and leave your garment to dry.
Step 8 – Fix Your Print
Ensure your print is completely dry before taking out the cardboard. Grab an iron and some heat resistant paper (e.g. baking parchment), and press using a high temperature for at least 30 seconds.
Leave your garment to air dry for 24 hours. After that, your jeans are ready to be worn, washed and shown off to all of your friends!
Pop a piece of cardboard inside your jeans, underneath the area you want to print. Cover your table with a sheet and stretch your garment flat on the table. Lay your screen on top of your garment with the mesh side flat against your item. Place something heavy on top to hold the screen in place.
Top tip: we’re big fans of the humble baked bean tin – a six-pack will do the trick!
Wearing gloves, pour your fabric ink horizontally across the top of the screen, avoiding your design. Take your squeegee, and in one smooth motion, move down your screen; use firm pressure, so that the ink covers the entire design.
Repeat this motion a few more times. Scrape the ink off your squeegee, and, using the clean edge, run it down your screen once more without any ink. Lift up your screen and leave your garment to dry.
Step 8 – Fix Your Print
Ensure your print is completely dry before taking out the cardboard. Grab an iron and some heat resistant paper (e.g. baking parchment), and press using a high temperature for at least 30 seconds.
Leave your garment to air dry for 24 hours. After that, your jeans are ready to be worn, washed and shown off to all of your friends!